by On a recent trip to Rio I visited one of Rio’s largest favelas (or shantytowns). Since they are such a big part of the fabric of Brazilian society it was important for me to visit at least one. The first thing you notice while driving around Rio is that they are everywhere - even in the most affluent residential areas. In fact, one of the favelas is perched high above the city with the best view of Sugar Loaf.
The only way to get inside a favela is with a guide and there are only a couple who offer this service. The reason our guide was even allowed inside is because his company donates a percentage of their income to the favela and over the years he’s made friends with some of the residents.
As he took us around, I couldn’t help but notice that this was actually a city within a city. They had a post office, a McDonald’s, hair salons and markets. The streets were lined with garbage, some in the bags and some spilling out. The houses were all built by the residents themselves, made from leftover materials. Mismatching tiles created a patchwork on the walls – some actually looked quite artistic - electricity cables hanging externally and windows facing inwards so no sunlight can penetrate through the rooms. Anyone who has watched the movie “City Of God” knows the harsh realities that lie beyond these walls: poverty, gangs and drug lords. And the Brazilian police have ‘an agreement’ with the lords not to enter these favelas, so when trouble breaks out inside they know to stay away.
Although many people might tried to talk us out of going on the tour because it can be dangerous, I would highly recommend going with a reputable company, the one we went with was Favela Tour and the favela we visited, Rocihna, was one of the safest. The tour gave me a clearer understanding of the problems that lie deep beneath the surface of Brazilian society. And some may argue that the residents of the favelas are well taken care of, there’s still a huge drug and gang problem that exists.
Comments
Alexandra says...
Wow! That sounds fascinating. Thanks for the tour company tip. I'm planning a trip to Rio and, having recently watched City of God, I wanted to work a favela tour into my itinerary. I hadn't found anything great via google though. Looks like the company you found is this one? www.favelatour.com.br. What sort of cost was the tour, and did you feel that it was more educational than it was voyeuristic? Sometimes there's a fine line...
Posted 532 days ago.
Manuel says...
How much do these favela tours cost?
Favelas are common to all the mayor cities in Latin America.
Perhaps the Rio ones are more dramatic because they're on
steep hills near the sea.
Someone should set up favela tours in Lima, Mexico city, Caracas, etc.
Posted 525 days ago.
shar1406 says...
Really interesting and some great tips! Cant wait to go!
Posted 521 days ago.
sara says...
Great suggestion. What an eye-opening experience.
Posted 497 days ago.
Rplum says...
Sounds awesome, do the people living in the favelas mind tourists strolling through there or did you get some comments?
Posted 480 days ago.
CocaColaAguaSkol says...
Good info and I agree - people should definitely do the favela tour as it opens people's eyes to the way things work up there. Just one thing though - you do not have to be with a tour to go into the favelas - anyone can just walk up there, they are not segregated from the rest of the city in any way. If you are with friends who live there you are unlikely to get into trouble - otherwise, though, the only really safe way to do it is with a tour.
Posted 477 days ago.
Alison says...
Sounds amazing. I've never been to South America but an experience like this woul have to be high on my list. I've seen a lot of slums in China and it really is eye-opening.
Posted 422 days ago.
DanaPalamara says...
Hi Seema, Nice write-up and great pictures. I'd love to go to Brazil and would definitely want to see a favela, but part of me would worry that the people that live in the slums would not feel so good about tour groups paying to see thier misery. Did you get any bad vibes at all or did people seem fine with it?
Posted 310 days ago.
JohnnieLa says...
Everybody. Go to the poorest part of the city where you live. Gawp at the poor people and their slum (or place where they live). Take photos of them. Make them feel worse or indifferent. Buy your souvenir T- Shirt or mug (with appropriate picture of their slum). Feel good about YOURSELF (ie: you've done good, helped them by buying something, created sustainable tourism by giving them jobs, thank god YOU don't live there and you come from a rich place/country etc, etc). Then see their reaction. Leave. There's your answer.
Posted 2 days ago.
JohnnieLa says...
If that doesn't make you feel good or it makes you feel guilty- then why do it in Rio?
Posted 2 days ago.
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