Hong Kong; use your elbows to full affect on the rush-hour underground; be wary of out-my-way-taxis; and if it’s raining, watch out for those open-my-umbrella-in-your-face-grannies.

Want your personal space back? You can get away to Lamma Island, barely 30 mins away, where cars aren’t permitted. The journey takes you from hustle bustle to quiet shuffle – during the day you can take a stroll around the island. If you want to be really clever, sync the boat with the daily 8pm harbour lightshow on Hong Kong side. Then arrive on Lamma for a seafood banquet at one of the waterfront restaurants. Don’t miss the last boat home though, you may end up with a concrete bed.

The restaurants are local enough and thankfully have translated menus. Follow a gulp of fresh air with a crisp Tsing Tao beer, and then take a look at what may be in the tank now, but will be on your plate in a few minutes. The steamed grouper is a Cantonese speciality, but always check fish prices before opting for the one that looks at you wrong.

Don’t be afraid to spit any bones or shells next to your plate. Take a quick look around and see the squeaky clean piles of bones on your neighbours’ tables. And if the opportunity arises to observe someone eating a fish head, you will see it’s an exercise of oral gymnastics. Don’t worry, they’ve probably been in training their whole life.