Despite the many doping allegations surrounding the Tour De France this year, we decided to go and watch a stage. The riders would be arriving at Marseille on the 18th July and leaving Marseille on the 19th, giving us an opportunity to watch a stage in the flesh and a start, which I had never seen before.

After several grueling days in the Alps, the riders would be looking forward to the relatively downhill stage from the Alps to the coast at Marseille. There was only one real climb in this stage just a few kilometers from the finish. We drove up the hill to find a suitable spot to watch and concluded that for a downhill stage, this was one horrible climb, about 15 km long with lots of false flats and rolling up and downs stopping the riders from getting a good rhythm going.

We found a spot just before the summit of the climb with a good view down the hill giving us a long view of the race as it came up the climb.

You might say that the Tour De France, along with many other sporting events is better watched on TV, but you don’t get a sense of the atmosphere on TV and that’s what we’d come for.

The first thing that gets your excitement up is the anticipation. Dozens of cars and people, whole families with picnic tables, chairs and a full meal with wine cheese and bread all laid out as though it was lunch at home. Everybody waiting for the first glimpse of his or her favourite rider, and prepared to wait hours. The atmosphere was incredible, kids running around playing and adults sitting in the shade drinking wine and waiting, just waiting.

The first glimpse of the tour came about two hours before the riders were expected. Thirty or so Police out-riders, sirens flashing, making certain the road was clear of traffic or blockages and closing any side roads. All roads are closed for the duration of the race. Next was a group of young riders doing the race course ahead of the adults, followed by their support vehicles. They all received a huge round of applause as they reached the summit of the hill.

Next to appear was the first of the publicity caravans, huge trucks with girls precariously perched on top throwing free samples into the crowd as they passed. I’m surprised no-one was injured but all the spectators (us included) moved to the roadside in the hope of catching one of the many plastic promotional items whizzing off the trucks. Music blared from each truck and several of them had bands in the back of the truck playing drums or groups of dancers (all pretty girls). The noise and excitement was incredible and the crowd started to get antsy, looking down the hill for the first riders. The caravan took about 45 minutes to fully pass and by the time they were done, we had a large pile of free souvenirs. Water bottles, a musette, several bags of candy, a few key rings, that sort of thing.

Then the first glimpse of the race proper, a distant buzz of a helicopter. The helicopter was the first indication that the riders were approaching. We saw several in the distance and one dropped down low in the valley next to the hill we were on. They must be getting close. Then all of a sudden, the first riders came round the bend and raced towards the top of the hill, preceded and followed closely by several camera bikes, motorcycles with a TV camera man on the back. Just behind that several cars carrying Tour officials and press.

Up and over the hill surrounded by helicopters, motorcycles cars and the riders team cars. A few seconds passed and then another, larger group of riders chasing the lead group also followed by camera bikes, their own helicopter and another group of support and race management cars.

Then more police bikes, more camera bikes trying to catch up, get ahead of the group and take some shots as the riders passed. Organised chaos. Then the main field, working together, trying to reel in the break away riders although realising it was too late this time. Once they reached the summit it was a straight drop down into Marseille and they had no hope of catching them.

Then the rest of the support cars, race officials more bikes, more police and lastly a few struggling riders, their cars and finally the “broom wagon” a minivan that sweeps up any riders that have fallen too far behind and need to abandon the race.

Whew! And then it was all over, the roads were re-opened, everyone got in their cars and headed home to watch the TV to see who’d actually won the stage.

You don’t really get to see much, but the atmosphere, the frenetic passing of the publicity caravan and the race is a spectacle not to be missed. We loved it and would repeat the experience at the start of the next days racing in Marseille. Definitely worth the trip. Watch the videos for an idea of how insane the whole thing is and just how many people there are watching.