Vence is perhaps my most favorite town on the French Riviera – out of season. Go here during July, August or September and you are asking for huge crowds, expensive prices and trouble parking. But out of season, it’s one of the few remaining gems on the Riviera.

St Paul-de-Vence is the most visited town in France, but just a few miles away, Vence awaits. Vence old town is a walled circle of medieval buildings, many of them unchanged for hundreds of years. In fact, some of the protruding balconies above street level look about ready to drop on an unsuspecting tourist. I have never seen one drop, but every time I visit, I am all too aware of their precarious nature.

Nice is famous for it’s shutters, but for my money, Vence offers at least an equal spectacle. The narrow alleyways hide a veritable smorgasbord of artists’ wares and Vence is nicknamed, “City of Art,” for good reason. Notable artists who have made their home here over the years include Henri Matisse and D H Lawrence. In fact. Lawrence died here in 1930, although a rather bizarre series of circumstances resulted in his remains being exhumed, cremated and shipped to Taos, New Mexico.

The market runs daily, and I defy you to walk through the streets and not buy any of the spectacular wares on sale. In fact, I ate the best sandwich I have ever had, right here. OK, I didn't just eat one, but when you see the photo, you can see just how cute they are. I may have had ?several?

The stalls and shops lining the market are filled to bursting with bundles of Lavender and fresh fruit and vegetables, the likes of which are now rarely seen in British shops.

There is a huge square just outside the old town with a multi level underground car park and whilst a little pricey, this is the best place to park. A lift runs to the surface and ejects you directly on to the main square, just a short walk to the town. Notable things worth a visit are the “Chapelle du Rosair,” designed by Matisse and the five medieval gateways surrounding the town. Each of them has it’s own history and you can get details from the well staffed Tourism office, which has a website here.
http://www.vence.fr/-Tourism-Office-.html

Just be sure and visit out of season, and you will enjoy a relatively unspoiled taste of medieval France.