Rua Pedro Lessa is the best place to buy music in Rio, perhaps in Brazil.

Neat kiosques with numbers, line this small pedestrian way in the city centre. (near Cinelandia metro stop)

Browse through the stands and you will see a wide range of local and Imported albums, originals and cheaper, pirated copies.

The prices are good for Brazil, with most CD's selling for 15 to 20 reais. (4 to 6 pounds) It's a laid back place as people do not hassle you for your money and there are no other sorts of shops around.

Many vendors here actually see themselves as music collectors. They'll be more than happy to show you things that aren't played in mainstream radio and mtv. You can find albums by carioca funk bands from the 70s, obscure heavy metal bands and traditional samba groups.

Nelson, from quiosk No 4, describes Pedro Lessa as "a space for cultural resistance", an answer to the media's poor musical tastes. He asks me about the music scene in Venezuela –that’s where I come from- and he laments that Brazilians get little exposure to rock "en espannol". "We get plenty of American stuff" he says "But we hear little from our South American neighbours".

Pedro Lessa breaks with conventions. If you bring them something new, Nelson and some of the other vendors will be happy to burn a free CD for you. The vendors also know about some of the good gigs in town. Charlie, from kiosque No 13, tells me about Renasence Clube, a place way off the tourist circuit, where Rio's Samba greats hold jam sessions every Monday afternoon.

I can't go because its my last day in Rio. But at least I buy the Club's CD.