Does a 13-mile trek down into a muddy red canyon, past scorching rocks and a Native American village, to a blue-green sparkling waterfall sound like your idea of a good time? Then this remote little gem is worth the hike. Havasu Falls is a large waterfall that you can only get to after a seven-hour hike down 13 miles into a canyon that eventually connects to the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River. Havasu Falls is also reachable by helicopter, but I feel that the true experience comes from the intense physical workout preceding the sight of this beautiful waterfall.

We started out hike around 3 am in order to walk during the coolest part of the day. If we had started any later in the morning, the end of our hike would have gotten closer and closer to noon-time, a dangerous time to be wandering around a desert canyon with a limited supply of water. The hike down is quite lovely, watching the walls on either side of you slowly lighten with color as the sun makes it way overhead. Going down is pretty easy going, but keep in mind that when you leave the falls, all your steps down will be aching steps up.

Around mile 10 you will begin to recognize signs of civilization, signs pointing towards the village which is home to the Havasupai Indian Reservation. The Havasupai have been living here for centuries, taking advantage of the fertility that the falls’ water bring to their part of the canyon. There are dogs everywhere and many horses and mules in paddocks. No one seems very happy here – animals and people alike. If you’ve learned anything about the Native Americans in the United States, this reservation is a striking insight into the tragedy that has befallen the first inhabitants of North America. The main source of income for the Havasupai is tourism and there is a campground about three miles past their village for which they charge exorbitant rates: 60 bucks for an overnight pass. The lack of happiness in their village is chilling, and although what lies beyond the reservation is wonderful. You can only hope that the money they charge for use of their campground will somehow help in their plight.

Beyond the village is a series of waterfalls that can cool the hottest trek-tired body. The water is a bluish, greenish milky color resulting from the reaction of the water and the high levels of lime found in the soil. You can camp right along side the river, but beware during rainy season the campground often shuts down for fear that visitors will be washed away in flash floods. Seven more miles down from Havasu Falls a long, and sometimes treacherous, hike will get you to the Colorado River. Keep in mind though, that it’s then seven more miles back, and another 13 to where you’ve left your car at the top of the canyon. Beginner hikers should not attempt such a feat, especially without the proper water filtration systems to purify the river water. The hike back from Havasu Falls is quite a feat, almost like climbing stairs, with a heavy pack, for almost four hours. There are pack mules that bring luggage in and out of the canyon campsite, so if you’re worried about the climb out, talk to the local Havasupais about arranging service.

If you’re anything like me – the hike out is a worthy struggle. It hurts, but once you’ve reached the top and you’ve climbed yourself 13 miles out of a lush waterfall paradise, past sad, broken Native Americans through changing vegetation levels, back to the desert canyon and up and out to the parking lot where you’ve left your car and (hopefully!) more water, you can only feel a huge sense of accomplishment. If this description gives your feet a tingle, find Havasu Falls on the map north of Havasu, Arizona. Unforgettable journey.