High up in the Paris neighbourhood of Montmartre stands an exquisite piece of architecture - the Sacre Coeur, or "Sacred Heart" of the city. It's brilliant white stone reflects the sun on a bright day, standing as a pure beacon on the Montmartre hill.
The basillica was built towards the end of the 19th century and serves as a holy site of Catholic devotion and attracts many pilgrims every year.

Since I fell in love with Paris on a trip there in 2006, the Sacre Coeur has remained one of my favourite spots in the world. It is particularly special in the evening when the sun is setting and the tourist hoards are dwindling. I love to go there with a picnic of wine, bread and cheese (oh so French!) and sit on the steps to watch the city grow dark.

Before the sun sets too low, you can spot the many monuments and sights of Paris, either using the telescopes provided (for around 1 euro) or with the naked eye. Le Louvre, Notre Dame, Invalides (church where Napoleon is buiried)....and more! During the day you can climb the basillica dome inside the church for a much better view, but the view from the steps is still stunning.

Surrounded by other picnicers, one or two of them strumming guitars, we watch Paris, spread before us like a choppy sea of roofs and spires, begin to twinkle as lights flick on against the darkening sky.

I usually go on a Sunday so that around 9.45pm I wander into the church itself just in time for evening high mass. Being a Catholic church, the mass is sung in Latin by a choir of nuns, their voices echoing in the tall arches and domes of the basillica.

I wander disretely around the outer chappels, taking in the paintings, statues, saints' alters and candle displays. Though I am not Catholic, I feel at peace here among the high art, harmony and candle flames. I sit in a back pew and close my eyes, listening to the nuns' clear voices floating from stone to stone.

Mass over, I make my donation and leave. Outside, Paris is covered in jet silk and the Sacre Coeur stands stark and defiant against the night. People are still perched on the steps, and they will be there until midnight, playing music and drinking. The lights of Paris flicker and the ferris wheel near the louvre is entirely lit up, spinning slowly.

This is one of the most wonderful (and cheap) ways to spend a chilled out, cultured evening in Paris and also one of the best views of the city - I'd recommend it to anyone visiting the city.