Madagascar is one of the great travel destinations of the world with an unfeasible amount to see, especially in the nature department.

Antananarivo (lessen the mouthful by calling it Tana), the capital of Madagascar, is an almost inevitable part of your travel experience. You may have come for Lemurs, chamelions, mongoose, Tenrics, Fossa, mysterious rainforest, paradise like beaches, some of the best seafood in the world and extra-ordinary karst limestone landscapes but the reality is the bustling gateway that is Tana. Madagascar has shocking roads, so the best way of getting about is by the surpisingly good Air Madagascar and using Tana as your hub.

Anyhow, you have to do Tana*, so you might as well enjoy it and use it to ease yourself into the Madagacan experience.

[*you could float into Nose Be with new direct flights from Italy but if you want to actually get around the country then Tana still beckons].

I have done a bit of travelling in Africa and slightly dread the big city experience, however, Tana is remarkably pleasant and gives you clues as to the unique country you are stepping into. Rice paddies on the way in from the airport; a town centre lake surrounded by pretty blossoming purple Jacaranda; an outdoor market where you get virtually no hassel; a confusingly diverse indigenous mix of African/ Asian faces; lunch spots with asian fusion for main-courses combined with red wine and French cheeses to settle your stomach and a plethora of charming Renault 4 taxis make you realise that Madagascar is charmingly different. A rather wonderful hotch-potch of Africa, France and Asia all rustled up into something compellingly individual.

Quicklist of tips and learnings from Antananarivo:

- Near the airport is a surprisingly good place to eat with a pizza oven: Auberge du cheval blanc. It is also a cheap lodge. Might be a good place to stay if you get in very late and leave early in the morning to save the 30min-1hr (rush hour) journey into central Tana

- La Varangue hotel, bar and restaurant. More like a trendy Parisian place. Don't recommend the over-priced and pretentious food but the bar is worth a visit. Try the ginger rum!

- Hotel de France is functional but not inspiring.

- Try to time your visit for the weeping Jacarandas. Add a touch of magical colour and they really do weep like it is raining. Most odd.

- Lunch at La Fougere on the balcony of the Le Colbert is compulsary! Excellent lunch with pleasant (not stunning) views across Tana hills.

- Take a renault 4 taxi for the retro French experience

- Walk around the lake (preferably when the jacarandas are out) and the outdoor market is quite fun too.

- Eat at (or stay perhaps) at LaPasoa, a boutique and thorougly ex-pat restaurant. Filled with local types. A bit cliched but tasty and fun to see where the action is.

- Hertz car hire were pretty good and central. If you hire a car then you get a driver thrown in, which is handy because the roads are a total shocker and require nerves of steel.

I should emphasise that Antanarivo is not a destination in its own right but as it is a necessary hub, you might as well enjoy it. Best plan is to get out as soon as possible to see all the other amazing sites of Madagascar.