Apparently camels don’t like walking on sand dunes. Well, that’s what my camel driver told me anyway. Fortunately for my camel, Buri, there didn’t seem to be many dunes in the desert around Jaisalmer, just tinder-dry scrubland dotted with stunted bushes and rocks, with the occasional peacock, lizard or tiny mice to break up the view. Personally, I’d have preferred a few more dunes.

I enjoyed the riding bit more than anything, especially towards evening when the air cooled nicely and the head driver used to sing. The saddle had two seats, with mattresses for nighttime strapped to the top. It was surprisingly comfortable (okay, not at a gallop). In fact the worst bit was trying to get off, as Buri hated sitting down, so I had to say ‘Joop! Joop!’ to her for hours before she’d grumpily lurch to her knees.

At night, we slept under the stars after a basic supper of rice and dhal, and woke to find a network of beetle tracks around our beds. And cup of sweet tea later, we’d be ready to start another day of pretending to be brave explorers…