If you want a great night out in Vilnius, I recommend hotfooting it to Iki Ausros, a great cocktail bar in a beautiful street in the pretty-as-a-picture Old Town. I was expecting it to be a bit pretentious, as it’s expensive by local standards (around a fiver a drink), but it wasn’t in the least snooty. The décor’s cosy rather than flash, the atmosphere’s happy and the staff are brilliant. I was a bit bamboozled by the huge menu, so the barman asked me (in perfect English) what type of thing I liked and rustled up an impeccable made-to-order drink. I got chatting with another woman who was there on her own who said she loved Iki Ausros because the second time she dropped by, three or four months after her first visit, the barman remembered exactly what they’d talked about the previous time.