In 1996 I visited Belfast with a group of kids from England, Northern Ireland and The Republic of Ireland. The purpose of bringing together these kids was so we could all learn a little about each other and realise that the whole situation in Northern Ireland could be resolved by people like us seeing the humanity in each other. In a round about sort of way this is just what has happened at a political level. Moderates and then extremists from both sides gradually came to the glaring realisation that encouraging peace was in everyone's interest. The peace process began in earnest two years after my first visit. In 2006 I went back for the first time since, what I found was nothing short of shocking.

In the city centre there is the faint whiff of cosmopolitanism and there were people on the street who weren't white which seemed to suggest that there was the faint chance that some people had actually chosen to move to Belfast! Urban redevelopment is evident and the former docklands where The Titanic was put together are being redeveloped for the purpose of tourism? Yes, Belfast now has people who want to come and visit it.

Why do I sound shocked? 11 years ago the tension in Belfast was palpable and those of us with southern accents would be hesitant approaching certain strangers for directions- while our English counterparts no doubt experienced the same hesitancy when approaching other strangers for directions. The city had an ugly military presence and the oppressive feeling that only springs from decades of hatred. Indeed in the summer of 1996 some of the worst riots took place and a bus journey I took was curtailed by burning cars.

Today there are signs that people are getting up and on with it. There are interesting shops on the main streets, surprisingly hip cafes and restaurants and bars where the bouncers are no longer likely to tease your sectarian affiliation from you before letting you in.

So that's the city centre, but what of the rest of the city? As mentioned in Catherine's article on Belfast (http://hereorthere.com/members/catherine/experience/131) there are now a number of options for tourists to go and explore the former heartlands of hatred. 'Former' is too strong a word. It would be idealistic and crazy to think that these areas are now peaceful. One can only assume that if they were that the murals would be gone from the walls of normal houses extolling the virtues of one side and spewing hatred at the other. Nevertheless, it was the area around the Falls Road and Shankill Road that had really upset me in 1996 and in 2006 I found myself a lot more at ease.

That streets that were once eerily empty now see bus loads of Canadian and European tourists is, in an odd way, very reassuring. The murals are, in places, quite artistic and there is a chance that they will be preserved indefinitely as a reminder. More than a reminder they could be a useful signal to the Israelis and Texans of the world- Walls won't do anyone any good!

Northern Ireland is a long way away from a peace that will last forever, but prosperity is creeping in. Prosperity tends to show the benefits of peace and therefore will hopefully cause the peace to last. Right now is a fascinating time to visit Belfast. Personal safety is not any more of a concern than it should be in most places but sensitivity ought to be exercised when discussing certain topics with the locals. Do not assume anything about a person's politics or religion.

Belfast is not one of the most beautiful cities in the world but it is a real life example of a city recovering slowly from conflict and well worth seeing for just that reason. While you're in that part of the world make sure to check out The Giant's Causeway which is easily accessed by bus tour from Belfast.

Political climate aside, this is still a northern city with little between it and the Atlantic, the climate itself is lousy. Best thing to do? Save the Athens trip for October and hit Belfast in May!