All of the things that visitors associate with Holland are oddly lacking in The Hague. That is unless of course the visitor in question has done their homework and knows that the Dutch are well renowned for their efficiency, punctuality, wild night life and penchant for cheese. Den Haag presents no canals, no tulips, no windmills, no clogs and few coffee shops (though there used to be a very nice one on a boat if you are inclined to go on a search).

The Netherlands effectively has two capitals (some Dutch people even claim 3 including Rotterdam), Amsterdam and The Hague. Yet strangely enough this doesn't seem to lead to hysterical rivalry- perhaps because the Amsterdammers are too busy giving Rotterdam a hard time. However this status as political capital gives The Hague a strange feeling. It's not all suits and diplomats as may be expected but rather a cosy, shopping oriented city sandwiched between two lovely smaller towns.

Architecturally The Hague is schizophrenic. You are unlikely to find other examples of Dutch classic revival that are this tall alongside gaudy art deco and main strips that were obviously designed by refugees from the Soviet block. While this is a bizarre mix to be surrounded by on an ongoing basis it is fascinating to take all of this in and try to imagine just what on Earth the designers were thinking. Needless to say, the older parts of the city are- as with most Dutch cities- quite appealing.

And then there's the Queen. Anyone who has ever been to Amsterdam on April 30th will recommend the Queen's Day celebration I have no doubt. But the night before, April 29th, Den Haag is the place to be with amazing street parties, everyone clad in orange and lekker beer as an inevitability.

The good lady Queen Beatrix lives in The Hague and though her official residence is none too exciting, don't despair if palaces are your thing because there are castles and palaces to beat the band in these parts. See http://www2.holland.com/denhaag/gb/...ts/index.jsp for more information.

Another reason to sing the praises of The Hague is that it is probably the best base camp for a tour of The Netherlands. From here the dependable Dutch rail network spreads out in every direction and you can be in many of the most famous cities in under an hour. Right on The Hague's door step are Delft (famous for the patterned crockery) and Scheveningen (famous for Dutch sunshine...?).

Delft is a rather adorable university town. If canal withdrawal has set in after spending some time in The Hauge you can get your fix here. It's riddled with canals, old buildings and it's quiet and friendly. Quaint may seem a patronising way to describe it but it fits.

Scheveningen is resorty to put it mildly. There are fast food restaurants, amusement facilities and a lot of sun chairs. For some reason I can not fathom in Sheveningen's case this is actually a recommendation. The atmosphere on this strip of sand is wonderful on sunny or windy days and the gaudy facilities are quite unimposing once you're on the beach. If you can't imagine how to pronounce the name don't worry, most Dutch people I know would be impressed that you even tried.

The Hague takes time to appreciate. There are galleries, art shops and museums to be enjoyed but in terms of good vibes the city takes patience...unless of course the thought of embassies and international institutions gets you out of bed in the morning. A spring time visit coupled with plenty of day trips will give you a proper taste of the heart beat of this capital contender.