As an Irish man who travels a lot I never cease to be surprised by some of the out of date misconceptions that exist about my homeland. Indeed I remember meeting an American girl in Vienna who lamented that her trip to Dublin had been such a disappointment because it was 'just a city'. And she would be correct; the Ireland of romantic green hills, pubs full of friendly characters and musicians and superstitious folk concerned about fairies is not to be found in Ireland of the 21st century and certainly not in the cities.

However, if a little of the old Celtic magic is your sole reason for coming to Ireland then make no mistake about it, Galway is where you need to go!

Galway is one of the few urban areas in Ireland where you will still experience a truly friendly open music session in its natural environment. While these events do happen in many of the other cities they are not as easy to find and not usually as much fun. In Galway it is a matter of strolling down the main street and keeping your ears open. Music in this city is symptomatic of how Galway has made a successful fusion of the old and the New Ireland. Decidedly contemporary experimental music has its place and its not far away from the folk music and trad music for which Ireland is better known.

Galway city is picturesque, small enough to stroll around, colourful and easy going. In the area around the appropriately named Shop Street you can find...well shops, but also an abundance of funky cafes and tasteful restaurants. While much of Ireland steps up to the dubious honour of being one of the world's most expensive countries Galway remains reasonably sane with prices catering to a mid-range budget. It is a town with a large university population and that, no doubt, plays a part.

The University (National University of Ireland Galway) has some pretty buildings and nice grounds and is worth a visit especially as it is so close to Galway Cathedral. This cathedral is quite a sight and not far from the action. Keep a close eye out for John F. Kennedy's portrait!

The city is oddly cosmopolitan as it was once one of those trendy towns that Europe's cool hunters bear down on bringing juggling, psychedelic trance and unicycles with them.

And the rolling green hills and ancient druids? You're in the right part of the world for these too in Galway. A short day trip can take you to the spectacular wilderness of Connemara, the geological and botanical oddity of the Burren, the breath taking cliffs of Moher (though sadly the new visitor friendly walkways don't do them any favours) or the sobering sight of well preserved famine villages cleared out by disease, hunger and emigration over 150 years ago.

This is the Ireland you will find in tourist brochures and the romantic nostalgia of the Irish diaspora. Unless you're a literature fan or a sports nut, any tour of Ireland ought to start here!