Samarkand came as a welcome relief after the border chaos. A bed and breakfast based around a quiet courtyard with green tea and watermelon served on arrival. All this served whilst sat an what looks like a large bedframe with a table in the middle. Unlike most of the towns we've passed through so far the past is very evident in Samarkand. The Registan with it's large blue domes and azure tiling is impressive on a grand scale. Other Mosques around the town and also it's bazaar with stalls piled high with dried fruits, almonds and other nuts hint at it's silk route past.

From Samarkand we travelled back towards Tashkent then on to the Kyrgyzstan border near Andijon where we spent the night in the worst hotel I've ever seen. It was the perfect stereotype of a Soviet era disfunctional clanking block house complete with battleaxe receptionist.

Kyrgyzstan on the other hand was a wonderful place. A big fat guard at the border took out the sombrero put it on and started dancing. You wouldn't get that at Dover! On hearing I was English he shouted "Sherlock Holmes!" and as Ed got out the car with with perfect timing "Dr. Watson!"

Kyrgyz itself is very mountainous, a welcome break from the arid plains. We camped up at around 3000m amoungst the yurt camps then pushed onto Lake Issykul for more mountain adventures. I've tried some new foods on this trip including bulls testicles in a Moscow restaurant and horse meet in Uzbekistan but the sour fermented mares milk from the heights of Kyrgyz is the most disgusting thing I've ever tried. Imagine the taste of sour milk on your cornflakes then make it fizzy and drink it by the litre.

Back in Kazakhstan now about to taste the nightlife of Almaty before a mad rush to the Mongolian border over the next three days. Will hopefully be in touch again when possible.