Jodhpur is not on the standard Rajasthan itinerary. Adventurers favour the Golden City of Jaisalmer for its camel treks, and shoppers prefer the terracotta pink of Jaipur’s bustling markets over the impressive fort and winding streets of the Blue City.

It was the colour that drew me there. I went to photographs the blue buildings, and found a snaking maze of winding streets and crowded bazaars full of spices and strange fruit. Above it all is the Mehrangarh Fort, apparently and aptly called by Kipling “the work of angels and giants”.

The fort itself is striking enough, with high sandstone walls extending upwards from the cliffs over the old city. Inside the defences are airy palaces and marble courtyards, banquet halls and splendid rooms, but what makes the fort itself worth visiting is the audio tour.
In a country of poorly explained museum exhibitions and badly organised attractions, touts and pushy guides, the well-planned audio tour at the Jodhpur fort is a calm respite from the chaos that is the main part of travelling in India. Here, for 200 rupees, you can, in your chosen language, listen to the story of the fort, and, for a change, relax.