It is possible to stay in India without eating Indian food. On a rooftop in New Delhi’s Paharganj I met a woman who travelled for months across the subcontinent, subsiding solely on soup and toast. She dipped her spoon into a bowl of canned broth and raved about India’s architecture, history and culture, but refused to eat the food. “I’ve never been sick,” she boasted. I smiled politely. I felt she was missing the point.

Food is one of the great pleasures of travel in India. From backpacker’s rooftop cafes where you can drink pineapple lassis overlooking the city at sunset to tiny stands selling piping hot street food, and from restaurants in converted palaces to the ubiquitous dhaba, eating spans the breadth of a wonderfully diverse culture.

Across from New Delhi Railway Station, just beside the entrance to Paharaganj Main Bazaar, is a tight-packed block of dhabas to rival any in the country. There’s an exuberant friendly rivalry between the various places, and you’ll be invited and cajoled to enter each establishment, with staff rushing out to hand you English menus as soon as you show the slightest hesitation.

It’s hard to go too far wrong, though. All sell excellent versions of the usual vegetarian dishes found at dhabas across India: tandoori breads accompanying rich dhal makhani, saag paneer, spicy aloo ghobi and the like.

If you’re waiting for a train, or have just missed one like I did, the dhabas also make a fantastic spot for a breakfast paratha with yoghurt on the side, or dhal with deep-fried puri breads.

It’s not all about food though. Dhabas are cheap and fast, and pretty much everyone occasionally stops in for a quick meal. Across from the New Delhi Railway Station it seems as if the entire subcontinent passes through, if you stay long enough to look.