Balata is the largest refugee camp in the West Bank with a population of almost 22,000 (). The camp was founded by the UN for Palestinian inhabitants of Jaffa (now considered a suburb of Tel Aviv) driven out by Israeli forces in 1948. Nablus has several such camps in its immediate vicinity, but Balata is regarded as one of the strongest centres of resistance during both intifadas (uprising against Israeli occupation).

I stayed in Balata camp during the ISM's (www.palsolidarity.org) 2005 Olive Harvest campaign. The ISM rented an apartment there at the time. The campaign involved going out into the fields and helping Palestinian farmers to pick their olives. This was more than just voluntary labour, since the farmers are often victims of attacks coming from Israeli settlers in the area. Nablus is surrounded by several settlements, mostly of Jewish fundamentalist nature. The presence of international volunteers often means that these attacks are less likely to happen. It also means that Israeli soldiers are less likely to block farmers from harvesting their land.

Although we worked hard in the mornings, we did have time for a little sight seeing too. The ISM coordinators at the time gave us a tour of Balata camp, showing us the bad conditions the people there are forced to live in. The despair engendered by the regular invasions of the Israeli military there drives some to become fighters. The walls of Balata are covered with posters of their ghosts. It's a tough place, but also a hospitable place.

Some of us also did a little tour of Nablus' picturesque Old City, which, if it was not for the occupation could certainly be a major tourist destination. There are the famous old soap-making factories (organically made from olive oil) as well as old Turkish baths.