Travel Blog by 
Each morning, it was a relief to burst above deck on the stuffy, diesel-smelling Sarah Dayuma and out into the Pacific sunshine. Today, as normal, we had sailed overnight to arrive at a new Galapagos island for a 7am hike, and doubtless another five rolls of film. Our guide was sleeping off another rum hangover, so we jumped in the dinghy and headed for the beach.
Espanola is one of the sandier and more beautiful islands in the bare, volcanic Galapagos, but for most visitors this is a relatively minor appeal. This island has some of the most fun snorkelling and diving you will ever enjoy!
We picked our way between sunbathing and nursing sea lions and into the chilly water. I was just getting over the fact I’d only brought a ‘shortie’ wetsuit when a penguin swam past, and made me feel cold all over again! We were the first boat to land in the morning – a huge advantage to the otherwise unremarkable little fishing boat we were calling home – and the pups were feeling playful.
Under the water, they would launch themselves at us in a barrel roll, like a torpedo, then soar away at the last second. On the surface, one bigger pup insisted that we participate in the game. He smacked the water with his flipper, soaking his chosen playmate, then swam away and looked back over his shoulder as if to say, ‘come on – chase me!’ Our whole group was besotted with the fearless pups.
As we swam further out, hammerhead sharks were circling underneath. I had heard a lot of contradictory accounts about the aggression of these sharks, and I’d seen a pretty scary white-tip feeding frenzy the day before, so I stuck near the surface. The amazing abundance of the Galapagos’ waters is such that, in one bay, you can swim with three species of shark (including whale sharks – try Wolf Island), sea lions, penguins, several incredibly rare turtle species, and my favourite; the Galapagos’ own Godzilla!
Swimming back in to Espanola’s beautiful sand beach, I came to the surface alongside a gruff, barnacled marine iguana. He snorted a spray of water at me (it means ‘back off!’) but kept swimming in that sinuous, crocodilian way and tolerated my company all the way to shore. There he headed, grumbling and snorting, for a black rock to sunbathe and recharge himself for his next algae-eating foray into the water.
They may not have the sea lions’ big brown eyes, but the world’s only seagoing lizard has a definite charm of his own!
Comments
Hugo says...
Amazing. Wow... I'm rather lost for words.
Posted 968 days ago.
lucysoff says...
Ditto. Just awesome.
Posted 963 days ago.
ahitz1202 says...
Reading your experience makes me want to visit the Galapagos even more than I did before, and that's saying a lot... that kind of biodiversity (and the freedom to see it so naturally!) seem pretty hard to beat!
Posted 956 days ago.
intotheflame says...
what an experience...just the thought of being able to swim so freely with these amazing creatures sends a shiver down my spine. i want to go so bad!
Posted 954 days ago.
Rplum says...
I can't believe you can swim with whale sharks there too, thats someting Ive wanted to do for ages. How lucky you've been there..
Posted 946 days ago.
Tom says...
Great experience! What cheeky fellas. Hammerheads are slightly unsettling though :)
Posted 945 days ago.
Thriller says...
Really super photos, thanks.
Posted 931 days ago.
DanaPalamara says...
What an amazing experience - you've made me even more desperate to go there now
Posted 829 days ago.
vicktravels says...
What a wonderful experience. I've traveled to the Galapagos Islands as well earlier this summer...I was very hesitant to travel to Ecuador, but once a deal came up with Galapagos-inc.com, I had to take it! It definitely turned out to be an unforgettable experience...and I truly enjoyed the cruise. The animal life of the Galapagos has to be the highlight, as well as the numerous amounts of adventures that you have to take on to truly experience its potential! Wonderful shared experience, keep traveling!!!
Posted 237 days ago.
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